When on, this magnifies your focusing area to make it easier to focus manually each time you turn the lens’s focusing ring. In order to do this I need to be able to quickly switch my drive mode to single and also to switch to shooting Fine jpeg only (because the Digital Tele-Converter won’t work in RAW or burst mode). The thing is though, batteries are cheap. Not being well heeled enough for a Leica, the Fuji is ideal. A tool allows someone to carry out a particular function. This is just my way, configured to quickly access the things I need when I am shooting on the street. You say your approach is to shoot in aperture priority and use the 3 auto iso settings at 1/60, 1/125 and 1/250-500 and switch to whichever one is appropriate. I've always been a huge fan of black and white images, and these custom settings give me a great starting point for four different looks and feel when it commes to monochrome in camera editing. It lets you select the interval between shots and the total number of photos. ( Log Out / A very good camera to carry when travelling. If I am working with very specific lighting though I will sometimes use spot metering too. I almost always keep it on AF-S for single-servo autofocus, but if I am trying to track a moving subject, I occasionally switch to AF-C. Depth-of-Field Scale: When a focus indicator is displayed, either with the depth of field preview button or one of the cycles of the DISP button, this option changes what the X100F tells you is “in focus.” I recommend selecting Pixel Basis because it is more stringent. I think we’ll be best of friends!! There is a slightly faster way to choose between film simulations. This function button is set to allow me to quickly choose RAW plus jpeg, or just Fine jpeg. Basic Settings, Set-up, and Functions People speak very highly of the filters such as Classic Chrome and especially Acros. I use the Digital Tele-Converter when I am out and about, with no concerns. Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. Set to “Push Joystick to Unlock,” you can only start moving your autofocus points when you push in the joystick once. Ian are you sure one can “set up the front dial for adjusting the ISO.” I can’t seem find this option in the button/dial settings. It is a strap from my friends at Hyperion Camera Straps, you can find them on Facebook. Here is the part of the user’s manual relevant to this setup: http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x100f/menu_setup/button-dial_setting/index.html#iso_dial_setting_a. The Fuji X100F is the fourth in Fuji’s line of X100 cameras – the X100, X100S, X100T, and X100F. I love these types of posts which get people into someone else’s process. Monochrome Fujifilm JPEG Settings. What is your advice? I will check all my settings and have a play and get back to you. The Fourth Generation of the Fuji is “The One” By Steve Huff. So if I’ve taken a shot of a statue when I look at the image on the camera screen or iPad it’s on a slight lean. When I want to use this feature, I drop into jpeg only and single shot mode (if needed… this is usually my default), then I can turn the Control Ring to select between 35mm, 50mm, and 70mm fields of view. 100% sure. MF Assist: This one is down to personal preference in terms of which visual aids you prefer when focusing manually. Mic Level Adjustment: Change to increase or decrease in-camera microphone sensitivity. The only camera I use a protective filter on ins my X100F. I just received my X100F today! The electronic shutter is a wonderful thing, you just need to know when not to use it. The easiest way is to place your camera in Manual Focus mode using the switch on the side of the body, and then use the AF-L button (or, whatever button you have AF-L assigned to) to lock focus for you. This setting controls whether you want to focus continuously as you hold down the button, or just once. The camera takes photos with the mechanical leaf shutter until your shutter speed is too fast for that to be possible (faster than 1/4000 second), beyond which the X100F switches to electronic shutter. Z6 II vs Z7 II – which one is better for enthusiast, Red switch: Alternates between electronic and optical viewfinder. I am left eyed and the X100f is probably the most comfortable camera I have ever used as the viewfinder is on the extreme left of the camera which gives much more room for me to access the buttons. For me the complexity of the menu system is the only major drawback of an otherwise wonderful camera. Image Disp: How long your photo pops up on the rear screen or electronic viewfinder after capture. If you’re taking pictures in such a dark scene that your Max Sensitivity and Min Shutter Speed values have already been reached, the X100F will use longer shutter speeds rather than increase ISO any further. Change this to suit your shooting style and most frequently accessed controls. Consider one of my online learning options: Are you looking for a presentation for your organization / event in Vancouver (or throughout Canada)? Thanks very much. Makes sense Thanks for the reply! I do shoot manual for many things, but on the street I want to think about my camera as little as possible (maybe just adding some exposure compensation or, as mentioned above, adjusting which Auto ISO setting I use depending on how much ambient light I have). There are a lot of options here, and it’s all personal preference, but I recommend turning off anything that is unnecessary for your work simply to eliminate distractions. Thank you Ian. Fuji X cameras have a lot of technology under the hood but once you have settings established you rarely have to go back to the menus for anything. Captured with the Fujifilm X100T Although the camera isn’t actually weather sealed, the official Fujifilm leather case offers excellent protection from the elements, or when carrying the camera in your hand luggage. Thanks for your posts (I’ve been reading quite a few of them). ( Log Out / Thank you so much for taking the time to comment. Discussing Creativity, Inspiration and Motivation on the FujiLove Podcast, Processing Black & White Street Photographs with Acros, Processing Street Photographs in Classic Chrome, Toronto Street Photography Part Two – Rain, Toronto Street Photography Part One – Sunshine, The importance of reflection and editing your work, Los Angeles street photography with the Fuji X100F – Part two, Los Angeles Street Photography with the Fuji X100F – Part One, On being an Official Fujifilm X Photographer, Seattle, the Fuji X-Pro2, street photography, a chance encounter, 20 new Fuji X100F street images (and a quick word of encouragement), On photo walks, friendships and not clicking the shutter, On collaboration, community and being true to yourself as an artist…, On Creativity, Perspective, and Acceptance, Vancouver Street Photography, Light & Shadows, and a few thoughts on the Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 Pancake Lens, San Francisco Chinatown Street Photography In Classic Chrome – Part Two, San Francisco Chinatown Street Photography in Classic Chrome – Part One, Politics, photography, and owning your happiness, Photographing New York City from the Top of the Rock, Gratitude, Admiration, and One Hundred Blog Posts, The Interview Series: Ten Questions with Official Fuji X Photographer Patrick Laroque, Seattle street photography and the importance of always taking the time to do what you love, The importance of light when shooting street photography, The night photography almost ruined my vacation – A cautionary tale, Fuji X-Pro2 Review Part Five: A Month With the X-Pro2, Fuji X-Pro2 Review Part Four: Using the X-Pro2 in a Portrait Session, Fuji X-Pro2 Review Part Three: Vancouver Cityscapes, Long Exposures, and Street Photography, The Interview Series: A discussion with Official Fuji Guy Gord Webster, Fuji X-Pro2 Review Part Two: Low light autofocus and high ISO performance, Fuji X-Pro2 Review Part One: Unboxing and First Impressions, “Failure” is a necessary part of the creative process…, The Interview Series: Ten Questions With Olaf Sztaba. 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